Left: Linda and Maxxie

Right:Kodi and helper Vic enjoying each others company and a bit of control work...

TRACKING

The tracking is always the most rewarding exercise, as Berners are almost pre-programmed for this. Obviously there are many training methods, all of which work for different types of dog personalities. Berners like eating. The smell of crushed vegetation with just a hint of a little snack is irrisistable. Chose a clean area with short grass. In Africa, "clean" means relatively litter free with no foot paths crossing the area. Plant a stake next to your left foot, stand on the spot for a while. Face into the direction of the wind for the first stage. This would consist of laying a small "scent pad" next to the stake. Tramp on the grass for about a one meter radius, putting food into each footstep, under your shoe. This will ensure that the smell of the food is integrated into the vegetation. Immediately after you have done this, present the puppy, complete with a collar and lead , in the area. Because the scent was laid into the wind, he will very quickly pick up the smell of the food and go to the area, where he will explore and search, picking up the food, but also making a sub-conscious mental note that following the smell of crushed vegetation and food is a very good idea. Before he has finished all of the food, take him away from the area. He must have a desire to return to the tracking venue. This procedure can be repeated once or twice, but the puppy must not get too tired or bored. As he gets better at finding every piece of food, stretch the scent pad out into a track. The puppy will very soon be following the track.

CONTROL

As far as control work is concerned, the Bernese puppy will do most things for a reward. Berners love to play. They especially like structured games, so.... as long as the rules do not change, they will learn very willingly and quickly. For example, to teach your puppy to sit, show him the reward (biscuit, ball, any treat..) Hold the reward high above his head, repeating the word sit. Ignore any other behaviour. If he jumps up or climbs your leg or lies down or even does nothing, ignore the behaviour. The minute he sits, albeit by design or accident, tell him how clever he is and immediately give him the reward. Repeat this a few times and he will very soon have the behaviour under the belt. Once he knows how to do it, tell him to sit and let him drive you for the treat. Should you require to correct your Berner at any stage of training, do so quickly with the reward being offered immediately. Bernese Mountain Dogs and compulsion are not synonymous! Berners do not like being shouted at. They have extremely acute hearing and can hear everything you are saying. If your dog does not respond to a request for a certain behaviour, it is probably because he does not understand you. Try again. Berners love making their Humans happy. This is not true for most breeds of dogs, where the dog wants to make its human happy in order to get a reward. The Berner's reward is his human's approval. The snack offered as a reward is certainly an added incentive. However, if the Human is not happy, it is sure that the Berner will be unnerved by this. Never try to train your Berner if you are not in good spirits. You will not get the results you are striving for. Rather skip the training session and take your Berner for a walk or play with him for a while.

SCHUTZHUND: The trial consists of 3 stages - tracking, control/agility and defence.

Defence work

Equipment: Blinds x 6;Ball with short rope to hold it with; food and a good "Helper"

The Bernese Mountain Dog is not, strictly speaking, a candidate for Schutzhund. That huge, gentle giant would rather die than bite someone for no obvious reason. BUT..... Turn it into a game and he (or her!) will be happy to oblige. In order to get the best results, teach the Berner the control first. NO biting until the dog can quarter, escort a helper, stop immediately on command and LEAVE immediately on command. We train everything using a ball and food. The blinds can be erected and a "helper" stands in the first one of them. The handler sends the Berner to go "around" this blind.

When the dog gets to the occupied blind, the "helper" waits for him to sit and then energetically rewards the dog with the ball, keeping hold of the rope. The handler gives the dog a simultaneous command to "hold". As soon as the dog has a good hold on the ball, the "helper" can fight him for it. The dog will enjoy this. Once the dog is confident with this game, the handler can observe the behaviour and when the dog is calm, give a signal to the "helper" to stand totally still. Once the "helper is motionless the handler can quietly ask the dog to "leave". The "helper" must not move. The dog will probably try to re-start the game, but this must not hppen. The dog will let go because there is no fun in holding a dead ball! The second this happens, the "helper" must enthusiastically offer it again and repeat the fight. As the dog learns the rules of this game, the interval between leaving the ball and having it offered back, needs to be very gradually increased. If the dog tries to grab the ball before it is offered to him, the "helper" must keep dead still. The ball can only come alive when the "helper" decides it should. The dog must learn that to make the "helper" resurrect the ball, all he has to do is let go and watch the "helper". Eventually the "speak" will happen by a natural progression. It akes a little longer than with a GSD or Malinois, but the excitement of the chase will take its natural course..... As soon as that "woof" comes out, the "helper" should praise the dog and offer the ball with a great deal of enthusiasm.

Once the dog is totally confident with this game, the sleeve can be introduced. The handler stands a few meters behind the blind with the dog off lead and holds him by the collar. The "helper" wearing the soft sleeve, comes out of the blind and runs away from the dog, facing him. The handler gives the command to "hold". The dog understands this command and will easily figure out the sleeve is the new "hold" toy. The "helper running backwards makes it easy for the dog to chase the prey and catch it. Once the dog has a good bite, the "helper" will stop running. The handler can approach the "helper" and dog in a calm manner and once the handler gets to them, he should gently praise the dog and maintain calmness. Then ask the dog to leave. It is imperative that the whole exercise is handled in a calm manner to avoid development of hectic behaviour and to channel the dog in a controlled manner. Once the dog is biting the sleeve with confidence and enjoying the chase, the Schuthund program can be slowly introduced. Train one section of the exercise at a time. Keep it fun and stick to the rules you lay down and you and your Berner will have great success!